{"id":11545,"date":"2016-05-09T10:00:41","date_gmt":"2016-05-09T09:00:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.saporedicina.com\/english\/?p=11545"},"modified":"2020-09-22T02:12:34","modified_gmt":"2020-09-22T01:12:34","slug":"travel-suzhou-tongli-zhouzhuang","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.saporedicina.com\/english\/travel-suzhou-tongli-zhouzhuang\/","title":{"rendered":"The Venices of the East: Suzhou, Tongli and Zhouzhuang"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Zhouzhuang\"Zhouzhuang – Photo by Matteo Bosi<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

It would seem that Italy isn’t the only country to boast about having a floating city: the Chinese enjoy pointing put that they too have a Venice, rather more than one, since neighboring cities often contend for the title. Whatever your preference may be, 100 km out of Shanghai<\/a>, in Jiangsu, where there’s plenty of water and lakes multiply into canals in the Yangtze delta, stand three towns that have left their mark on literature and art Suzhou (\u82cf\u5dde)<\/a>, Tongli (\u540c\u91cc)<\/a> and Zhouzhuang (\u5468\u5e84)<\/a>.<\/p>\n

The area is most famous for its silk production, which has historically been one of the greatest reasons for the blossoming of the cities. Even Marco Polo passed through these parts and he too spoke of Suzhou as a local Venice. In effect the structure of these centers, thick with canals and laced with bridges brings to mind the poetry of the Venetian city. However, forgive my ethnic bias, it doesn’t quite match the architectural beauty, although Suzhou might just have the best gardens to be found in China, while its two little sisters offer a partial glimpse at traditional China. <\/p>\n

Suzhou is a UNESCO World Heritage Site<\/strong> and a city that has suffered a bit due to its nearness to mighty Shanghai and the capital of Jiangsu, Nanjing<\/a>; but in recent years has retaken a central role even in the local quality of life.<\/strong><\/p>\n

When to go<\/h2>\n

\"Suzhou\u2019sA boat in one of Suzhou’s canals<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

As an area crossed by multiple canals, the humidity<\/strong> is a major travel companion. In Spring you risk the rains that are hardly appealing, especially in the gardens which become slippery and uniformly gray. Even summer can be rainy, but most of all it is hot and stuffy.<\/p>\n

The best time to cross the Chinese wetlands<\/em> is theautumn<\/strong>. In winter the risk isn’t snow as much as the freezing cold, aggravated by its friend, humidity; especially when you consider that the majority of visitors come for the outdoor sights.<\/p>\n

How to get there<\/h2>\n

\"Zhouzhuang\"Not just boats in Zhouzhuang – Photo by Matteo Bosi<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Suzhou is reachable on the high speed train line, gaotie<\/em> (\u9ad8\u94c1)<\/a>, which connects Shanghai to Beijing, passing through Nanjing. It is absolutely the most convenient way to reach this city, which is internally furnished with a metro system and the usual efficient Chinese taxi service. The gaotie arrives in Shanghai in about half an hour; there are multiple runs, at least one every thirty minutes outside of peak times, when they are more frequent. From Nanjing, the trip takes between an hour to an hour and a half. For Beijing figure on at least five hours (depending on the train). There are about twenty fast trains for the capital each day with departures every hour. By train it is also convenient to get to Hangzhou as well<\/a> which is about an hour and a half away with just as frequent train service.<\/p>\n

Suzhou is also served by an international airport. The closest international hub is Pudong, Pudong International Airport in Shanghai<\/strong>. There’s a direct bus connection between the airport and central Suzhou, operating every day for a trip of about three hours and a price of 84 Yuan. <\/p>\n

As far as getting to smaller Tongli and Zhouzhuang: both are connected by long distance bus<\/strong> from Suzhou and Shanghai, and offer mutual service to each other by bus as well. Departures are from the North Station of Suzhou and Central Station from Shanghai. Alternately, you can arrange transport with a private driver from Suzhou, or go with a guided tour on a day trip from Shanghai<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Where to stay<\/h2>\n

Staying in Suzhou is relatively simple since the city is well stocked with lodging. Click here to read our reviews on hotels in Suzhou<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n

Personally, in Suzhou I twice stayed at the Hotel Soul, good also for families<\/a>, which often has deals that make it just as economical as a hostel. It is located near Guanqian Jie, but off to the side enough to avoid the noise.<\/p>\n

A nice option would be to choose Shiquan Jie<\/strong> (\u5341\u5168\u8857) for spending the night or staying late in the small restaurants: this is a lively street that you’d come to anyway if you’re interested in Suzhou’s nightlife, where the city has been rebuilt as it was long ago.<\/p>\n

For Tongli and Zhouzhuang, you’ll have to decide between the accommodations inside the historic center (or inside the paid ticket area) and those outside. usually, if you decide to stay inside, you pay for the opportunity to stay inside typical structures, which at times aren’t all that well kept up. Therefore, pay close attention when choosing a hotel or hostel because some are rotted from humidity and aren’t worth the price asked. <\/p>\n

On that note, my experience in Tongli wasn’t the greatest: I stayed in the guest house of the Moon Shine Inn<\/a>, whose main building is just fine but the guest house is the worst you could hope for. While in Zhouzhuang I strongly recommend the Pomegranate Garden Inn<\/a>, in a strategic location with attentive staff and little English. You’ll manage to understand one way or another!<\/p>\n

What to see<\/h2>\n

\"AA glimpse of the canals of Suzhou<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Suzhou (\u82cf\u5dde)<\/h3>\n

Suzhou definitely requires more than a one day stay if you want to see all the sites enrolled in the World Heritage List, which are nine in total. That said, the majority of these are gardens, so if you’re not a huge fan of Chinese style gardens, after the first two you’ll feel like you’ve seen all of them.<\/p>\n

This comment isn’t meant to be simplistic, since I tried to see as much as possible, but later on, after a year\u2026 If you have to choose, I recommend that you opt for The Garden of the Humble Administrator<\/a>, the busiest one, The Lion’s Grove Garden<\/a> and a less centralized treat,small and less visited, The Couple’s Retreat Garden<\/a>. <\/p>\n

Remember though: the harmony between the atmosphere and environment of one of there other is purely subjective; what for me were breathtaking landscapes woven with bonsai and cedars and ponds full of striped koi, for you might be little parks stuffed with tourist and little charm. <\/p>\n

This is why with Suzhou everyone has their unique memory and two days are essential to explore it calmly.<\/strong><\/p>\n

So, moving on orderly, let’s start with the gardens: all open at 7.30 and the closing time depends on the season, varying from 17.00 and 17.30. The exceptions are the gardens that allow entrance at night.<\/p>\n

\"GardenGarden of the Humble Administrator and the Temple of Confucius<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n