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Crossing the Border of China and Vietnam on Foot (Hekou – Lao Cai)

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Crossing the border of China and Vietnam on foot

In this article I’ll tell of how you can get to the Vietnamese city of Lao Cai on foot, crossing the border at the Chinese city of Hekou, focusing on my personal experience and my feelings on the day I crossed. I hope that by reading this article you’ll want to travel slowly and lose yourself in the magic of the borders!

Who knows what shape borders will take over time, whether they will increase or disappear to allow people to get around without too many problems. I always imagine them to be impervious and silent places, where the sound of the wind and some stationary soldier accompanies the rivers and mountains, and where you can meet intrepid travelers.

But my imagination was for the most part influenced by the ancient prose of explorers and travelers who passed through these areas.

Then my imagination met reality, and the rivers and mountains took the form of runways and dusty desks, the sound of the wind became a speaker that reminds you to take your passport out and stay in line. And it’s like this that the majority of us see borders in airports, never having crossed a border by land. [Read more…]

Traveling to Shangri-la (Zhongdian): The Complete Guide

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Ganden Sumtsenling Monastery or Songzanlin Temple – Photo by Matteo Bosi

Perched on the slopes of the Himalayas at an altitude of over 3.000 mt, at the most northern point of the multi-ethnic region of Yunnan, as well as the crossroads of people with an extraordinary folklore and the entrance gate to Tibet: this is the city of Zhongdian, better known as Shangri-la. It is the chief city of the (majority) Tibetan prefecture of Diqing.

The history of this name is not the history of the place. Or better yet, it became so. This is where it would be really appropriate to start with “Once upon a time”, yes: once upon a time there was the writer James Hilton and his novel Lost Horizon ; and then there was the director, the famous Frank Capra and his masterpiece of the same name.

The story tells about a perfect city, wrapped up in and well protected by the Himalayas, with a civilization that secretly lived in harmony hidden away from the greed and selfishness of the modern world. Only the story’s protagonist came to fully understand the community’s mission.

The mysterious fascination of this place that for a long time has lead several to track down the remote places in China, has today been widely recognized as Zhongdian of Yunnan (although others try to make the same claim). [Read more…]

Traveling to Lijiang: The Complete Guide

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The mountains at sunset between Lijiang and Shangri-la -Photo by Matteo Bosi

Wrapped in the mountains on its high plateau, protected by the imposing Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang (丽江) is an ancient city whose original nucleus goes back over 1000 years, when the Ancient Tea Road (or Southern Silk Road) transited here, attracting merchants from all over Asia.

The Naxi were firmly established here at the time, shaping a center that today is a renowned tourist destination. The ancient heart is surrounded by a modern city that today flaunts luxury hotels, a capacious theater and wide streets to allow the numerous crowds of tourists to appreciate the tiled ways of the historic center, curled roofs and products typical of the area.

Lijiang is an unmissable stop on a classic Yunnan itinerary; while with a little more effort you can get to Shangri-la, for sure Lijiang isn’t missed by the Chinese visiting this region. As a result it’s a very popular city filled with bodies.

The Naxi themselves, who once lived in these alleys and ran their businesses there, now have almost completely abandoned the place, leaving the business to the Han. What was a precious architectural and social jewel, is now in their eyes an open mall, where the streets are packed with colored lights and there’s too much noise.

If you can, have a Naxi take you around the city: he’ll tell you how things once were a few decades ago, before the earthquake devastated the city and the homes were in their original forms; when from the boxy square you could freely romp through the local alleys; when the locals all knew each other and each street had a specific commercial interest. [Read more…]

Traveling to Dali: The Complete Guide

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One of the entrance gates of the Dali city wall – Photo by Matteo Bosi

Located in the heart of Yunnan, Dali (大理) is a picturesque town mainly inhabited by the ethnic Bai, who settled here millenniums ago. Or better, this is the Dali Old Town, the original heart, surrounded by a city wall and characterized by typical Bai homes and architecture.

Dali New Town, which China flaunts today, is a long settlement along the shores of Lake Erhai and has almost swallowed up the small classic center on the western shore. The hotels are all close to one another, the cars battle along the road that runs along the lake going from the airport to the old center, passing by new cement monsters that are increasingly huge and in bad taste, but represent progress.

This is an area that has seen a prosperous kingdom, the Kingdom of Nanzhao, submissive to the Mongols, when the Bai Buddhists invaded and then annexed them to the Heavenly Empire; for a long time Yunnan was nothing more than a stop on the Ancient Tea Road (or the Southern Silk Road).

Today tourism is an important source of its renewal, with all the pros and cons that comes with such speculation: local artisans struggle to resist serial production, homes give in to the temptation to convert into shops, the use of local costumes has become more for the tourists than tradition, at least for new generations.

Actually it’s not just in Dali, but the entire northwestern part of Yunnan, where ethnic minorities battle daily with imminent type-approval. It’s here, you can say, that the situation isn’t yet so compromised as, for example, Lijiang, where the locals have almost completely abandoned the old inhabited center.

This is to clarify my position as a tourist, which varies diametrically between fascination and disgust; and to make clear that in these areas it’s best to go as soon as possible since, when it comes to authenticity, there’s a relentless march that pushes Yunnan to lose something precious every day. The only alternative is to personally promote culturally responsible tourism. [Read more…]

Traveling to Kunming – The city of eternal Spring

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The Stone Forest near the entrance – photo by Matteo Bosi

Capital of the green province of Yunnan, Kunming has earned the title of Spring City, the city of eternal Spring, because it enjoys a mild climate all year long. But it’s not just due to the climate that Kunming attracts visitors: among all the large cities, it is the most livable place in China, fully immersed in the country and its culture.

In other words, although almost 4 million people live there and it’s in full modern development, it isn’t as international a city as Shanghai: it has something more “provincial” that makes it pleasant on a human scale and the various ethnic groups weave together in a social mesh; it is most definitely not the inferno of smog that Beijing often turns into.

At the same time, moreover, a few dozen kilometers from the city center it will seem that you’ve gone beyond the borders of time to find villages where they still struggle with running water and electricity.

This and more is part of Yunnan: among the most varied regions in China in ethnic terms, where you can fully appreciate the proximity of Southeast Asia; but it’s also a southern area battling to keep up with the developed East and boasts a breathtaking territory that has still been preserved. Perhaps for exactly this reason development has been delayed.

For a brief tour or long voyage in Yunnan, Kunming is the starting point. [Read more…]

Discovering Pu’er Prefecture, the green heart of Yunnan

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Pu'er PrefectureTea plantations in Pu’er Prefecture

Green is probably the color that best suits this splendid region of southwestern China, land of ethnic minorities that live in the most diverse natural environments. In Yunnan you can pass from the southeast Asian heat to the snows of the Tibetan slopes, covering a territory crossed by numerous watercourses and rich heights.

In this corner of paradise Pu’er Prefecture is the even greener heart, the color of ecotourism and tea leaves, two elements that make this region of Yunnan absolutely worthy of being visited.

Pu’er is one of the most important areas in the world for the production of tea (particularly its namesake version) and for several years the Chinese authorities have been heavily sponsoring this aspect for tourism ends, so much so that in 2007 they changed the name of the prefecture itself, previously known as Simao.

Historically this is also the region where one of the branches of the Tea Horse Road, which from Yunnan and Sichuan brought tea to India and from there to the Red Sea. The prefecture, moreover, is inhabited by at least fourteen different ethnic groups (about 60% of the population). [Read more…]

From Xi’an to Kunming on bicycle – The story of a slow ride

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Xian-Kunming by bike

This article was written by Riccardo Volpato, who wanted to recount his bicycling adventure from Xi’an to Kunming.

Landing in China on an university exchange program, after a few months of studying in Beijing I discovered that the dates of my exams left me a month and a half of visa to explore this enormous country. I chose to do so by bicycle so as to be able to freely visit the large cities, untouched villages and virgin valleys.

Planning in Beijing and preparing in Tianjin

Fascinated by travel stories about the natural beauty of Yunnan (云南), I chose Kunming as my final destination (昆明), capital of the region. Realizing the impossibility of pedaling – at my rhythm as a slow observer – the 2700 kilometers that separate Beijing and my destination, I decided to begin my trip from Xi’an.

With the intention of testing my improvised cycling equipment, I decided to first pedal to nearby Tianjin, then ship the bike and take the train to Xi’an. [Read more…]

Mosuo, the last (almost) matriarchal tribe

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Mosuo TribeShot by the photographer Luca Locatelli. Visit the whole gallery at lucalocatelli.com.

I heard about the Mosuo bits and pieces at a time talking to anthropologists and backpackers. They are a Chinese ethnic minority living around Lugu Lake, on the border between Yunnan and Sichuan province. I had the idea that they were a matriarchal tribe and I believed men among them were reduced to sex objects. Mosuo men didn’t even have to work!

“Maybe I could move there,” I admit I thought sometimes… [Read more…]

Travel to Yunnan Province

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travel to yunnanYuan Yang Rice Terraces.

This article is a travel guide to Yunnan Province, in the South West of China. It was written by Harley Greenberg, who works with a local travel agency (WindhorseTour) in China. The guide is going to focus on the following points and places:

  • Yunnan Basic Travel Facts.
  • Possible Itineraries.
  • The Stone Forest near Kunming.
  • Dali Ancient Town.
  • Lijiang Ancient Town.
  • Shangri-la.
  • Lugu Lake
  • Yuanyang Rice Terraces.
  • Hotel suggestions.

Yunnan Province is famous for its diverse scenery and for being home of a third of all China’s ethnic minorities. It has lots to offer any traveler!

Yunnan basic Travel facts

A trip to Yunnan province realistically takes at least one week. However, if you want to cover all the highlights I encourage you to spend twelve days or longer. [Read more…]

Two Days on the Tiger Leaping Gorge – My Hiking Experience in Yunnan

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tiger leaping gorge hikingTiger Leaping Gorge – Photos by Kristen Ng

This article will discuss my two day hiking experience on the Tiger Leaping Gorge (虎跳峡, Hǔtiào Xiá) during the summer tourist season, setting out from the tourist mecca of Lijiang, staying at a guesthouse on the gorge and returning back to the city.

Suggested Itinerary

Day 1

Lijiang to Qiaotou;
Hike from Qiaotou to Halfway House, stay overnight.

Day 2

Hike from Halfway House to Tina’s Guesthouse;
Tina’s to Lijiang Bus Station;
Lijiang onwards to Dali. [Read more…]

Living in rural ethnic China: Interview with Gaetan of Traval Cathay

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inthestreetsoflushiIn the streets of Lushi

Today we’ll discuss with Gaetan Green, the founder of Travel Cathay, a website dedicated to the off-the-beaten path places in China. If you’re interested on travel tips, history and traditions of Chinese remote areas, I advice you to check Gaetan’s website!

Gaetan, first of all thank for accepting to talk with me. When and why you ended up in China?

Thank you for having me on Sapore di Cina.

Well, I ended up in China during my first trip around the world in 2001. After traveling for three months through the country, I decided to come back for more. Once back home, I decided to study Chinese at university and then moved to Chongqing to deepen my knowledge of language in 2003. I lived in China on and off since then. [Read more…]

The Best Hotels in Dali, the City Where You Always Come Back

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The Ancient Town of Dali is one of the most beautiful cities in China and a top tourist destination. In this article you will find a review of some of the best hotels in the city for a wide range of prices. Just choose the right one for you and enjoy your stay!

Check out this article, if you need a more general overview about booking hotels in China.

Reviews of Luxury Hotels (5 Star) in Dali

Dali Fan Ye Cangshan Resort


The Dali Fan Ye Cangshan Resort is comfortable accommodation where businessmen will find meeting room availability. The Hotel is suitable for tourists in addition with easy access to the city’s attractions. Cars are available for hire and staff will arrange shuttle and airport transfer. There is a library and a garden for relaxation. Golfers have the change of a game with a course just 3 km away. Luggage storage can be arranged while smokers have a designated area. There is a shared kitchen, lounge and TV area. Some rooms have desks though for a luxury hotel there are many facilities missing that ought to be standard.

[Read more…]

The Best Hotels in Lijiang, Capital of Chinese Ethnic Minorities

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Choosing a good hotel in Lijiang, declared UNESCO Heritage Site, can be a difficult task due to the large number of hotels that exist and because in Lijiang, many of the hotels are of doubtful quality. In this article, you will find a review of the best hotels in Lijiang, whatever your budget may be.

If you are interested in the general idea of how to book hotels in China, you can read our recommendations here.

Reviews of Luxury Hotels (5 Star) in Lijiang

InterContinental Lijiang Ancient Town Resort


The InterContinental Lijiang Ancient Town Resort which caters equally well for tourist and businessman is located just 2 kms from the center. Yulong Snow Mountain, Lijiang Dayan Ancient Town and Qiyi Street are within easy reach. There are 270 guest rooms all with free Wi-Fi and 24 hour service is available to all. No smoking rooms and air conditioning are other amenities for guests to enjoy a comfortable stay. Recreation facilities include a fitness center, indoor pool, sauna and spa. Staff is on hand to arrange tours for those wanting to explore the City as well as guest transfers with English spoken when required.

[Read more…]

The Best Hotels in Kunming, the City of Permanent Spring

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Choosing a good hotel in Kunming, capital of Yunnan Province, can be a difficult task due to the large number of hotels that exist and because in Kunming, many of the hotels are of doubtful quality. In this article, you will find a review of the best hotels in Kunming, whatever your budget may be.

If you are interested in the general idea of how to book hotels in China, you can read our recommendations here.

Reviews of Luxury Hotels (5 Star) in Kunming

Kunming Green Lake Hotel


The Kunming Green Lake Hotel is one of the Reviews of Luxury Hotels (5 Star) in Kunming, renowned for its excellent amenities, prompt room service, and a wide range of well furnished rooms. It is centrally located in the city center with close proximity to the Cuihu Park and is just 1.1 km away from the Yunnan Provincial Museum. The hotel is equipped with a children’s playground, restaurant and fitness center. It offers free Wi-Fi in rooms and public areas. An added advantage of staying at this hotel is that it provides car rental services and makes travel arrangements to major sights in the city. The Kunming Changshui International Airport is located 23.5 km from the hotel, which makes it a 50 minute drive to the hotel.

[Read more…]

Lugu Lake: between the grassy sea and a legendary playboy

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In this chapter of the saga dedicated to South West China I want to tell you about our stay in Lugu Lake, a volcanic body of water that separates the provinces of Yunnan and Sichuan. I will tell you about its stunning colors, its barbecues, the Grassy Sea and Zhaxi, legendary playboy.

If you want to know how did we arrive to the 2,700 meters of Lugu Lake, homeland of the (almost) matrilineal Mosuo tribe, read From Lijiang to Lugu Lake: chronicle of a hectic trip. [Read more…]

From Lijiang to Lugu Lake: chronicle of a hectic trip

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Lijiang, YunnanLijiang: the South door to Tibet.

This story tells how instead of get on the public bus that from Lijiang arrives to Lugu Lake – the homeland of Mosuo people, last matriarchal tribe, – we trusted a crazy driver and reached the lake only after ten hours of vicissitudes.

From Dali to Lijiang

We leave Dali to reach Lijiang in a comfortable minivan packed with German tourists, their flip flips and a some Yunnan campesinos. [Read more…]

Dali: how to get lost in Cang Mount

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Dali Yunnan

We leave the Stone Forest and, as soon as we arrive in Kunming, we understand we don’t wanna stay in yet another metropolis. No need to travel till Yunnan for it. Then we take a minivan – call it a “bus” would be way too generous – till the 汽车站 (qiche zhan, the bus station) where we buy two tickets to Dali, town with name almost as exotic as Timbuktu.

We are lucky: the bus leaves in twenty minutes and at six p.m. we are already in Dali New Town. Yes, in Dali they built the modern metropolis fifteen kilometers far away from the Old Town. I’m not sure whether they did it to preserve the traditional architecture or because, from a logistical point of view, it was more convenient to develop the new town in another place. Knowing the taste of Chinese for urban sustainability and business matters, I would say the second hypothesis is more luckily to be true. [Read more…]

The Stone Forest and the legend of Ashima

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stone forest yunnan

Yunnan is one of most touristic Chinese provinces, especially in summer when everywhere else in China is damn hot. This means that an army of Chinese people had our same idea: visit 石林 (shilin), the Stone Forest. The etymology of the character “林” is one of those that remind me why I like Chinese:

木=mu=tree; 木+木=林=lin= forest. Being we so damn smart – or at least this is what we think – instead of staying in a comfortable hotel in Kunming and arrive to the forest tomorrow morning when the sun is already shining over the stones, we get on the first bus to Shilin and arrive there about seven pm. The first people we meet are a farmer with his steer and an hotel manager that tries to pitch his hotel as the best in Yunnan. We run away and order dinner at the restaurant next door: mushrooms, local cheese (for what I know Yunnan people are the only Chinese that do decent cheese), giant tomatoes and boiled chicken. [Read more…]