Mosuo, the last (almost) matriarchal tribe

mosuoShot by the photographer Luca Locatelli. Visit the whole gallery at lucalocatelli.com.

I heard about the Mosuo bits and pieces at a time talking to anthropologists and backpackers. They are a Chinese ethnic minority living around Lugu Lake, on the border between Yunnan and Sichuan province. I had the idea that they were a matriarchal tribe and I believed men among them were reduced to sex objects. Mosuo men didn’t even have to work!

“Maybe I could move there,” I admit I thought [Read more...]

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Lugu Lake: between the grassy sea and a legendary playboy

lugu lakeLugu Lake: Lige Village.

In this chapter of the saga dedicated to South West China I want to tell you about our stay in Lugu Lake, a volcanic body of water that separates the provinces of Yunnan and Sichuan. I will tell you about its stunning colors, its barbecues, the Grassy Sea and Zhaxi, legendary playboy.

If you want to know how did we arrive to the 2,700 meters of Lugu Lake, homeland of the (almost) matrilineal Mosuo tribe, read From Lijiang to Lugu Lake: chronicle of a hectic trip.

What’s there for dinner?

After the ritual pics and the adieu to our travel companions we tell the querido driver to let us in Lige, the village of our hostel, the Youth Hostel. The name is so original that in the only Lige there are two hostels with the same name…

We check in and then go looking for a bit of local flavor, that is dinner. The task is not that difficult as all the 饭馆儿 are aligned along the only street of the village, a tiny alley that borders the beach. We discover that in Lige people eat [Read more...]

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